As the winter weather looms ahead of us and spring seems like an awfully long way away, thoughts are no doubt turning to a spot of winter sun to tide us over until the mercury rises once more. A long-time favourite for long weekends, Morocco is a favourite amongst our team for good reason; short flight time, a mere hour’s time difference, fantastic food and plenty of culture to soak up. But this winter we’re swapping perennial favourite Marrakech for the somewhat quieter, coastal spot of Essaouira.
The port city – known until the 1960s as Mogador – lies on Morocco’s Atlantic coast and while Essaouira has a reputation as the windy city, it means it’s a haven for surfers, kitesurfers and windsurfers alike. It’s much smaller than Marrakech, and while that means the shopping isn’t quite on par with the famous souks of the tourist favourite, there are still gems to be found within its Medina – designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 – along with a crop of delicious restaurants, stylish concept stores, cafés and art galleries.
Staying in Essaouira Morocco
Around 20 minutes outside of the centre of town, surrounded by rolling hills and argan trees and with glimpses of the sea, like Le Jardin des Douars,(doubles from around £140 per night, bed and breakfast), this terraced boutique property feels like a well-kept secret. A drive lined with bougainvillaea leads you to its heavy wooden front door, shrouding a little slice of paradise in the Moroccan countryside, with a series of villas and suites nestled amid its walled gardens, where French elegance meets North African style.
Walking to our room through gardens of roses and herbs, we spied the dazzling jade-tiled adults-only pool, one of two at the property (the other being family-friendly), fringed with palm trees. At the top of its main building, above the restaurant and overlooking its terrace, our suite was a soothing soiree of earthy tones, Berber rugs and Zellige tiling. We loved the cosy reading nook, separated from the main space with breezy linen curtains; the perfect spot for curling up with a book if the afternoon is too windy for the pool.
Downstairs the dining room is a cacophony of Moroccan cosiness, with plumped armchairs, stained glass windows, tables set with crisp linens and walls lined with Moroccan art. We dined on stunning seafood – Essaouira’s famous for it – including fresh oysters, grilled squid with chimichurri sauce, black rice and grilled lemon and monkfish tagine. There’s an excellent selection of cocktails along with some really delicious Moroccan wines and very reasonably priced.
After a peaceful night’s slumber, the hotel’s breakfast buffet is a treat; think warm Moroccan pancakes, straight from the griddle, local goat’s cheese and honey, homemade yoghurt and fresh fruit and nuts. The pace of Le Jardin des Douars can be described as leisurely at best; we whiled away a good hour over breakfast, nursing our coffee while studying the frogs sunning themselves on lily pads in the pond next to us. Lunch is a similar affair; we fell head over heels for the utterly divine chargrilled leeks, with a tangy lemon labneh and toasted hazelnuts, and the stunning local sardines, quite the best we’ve ever tried.
The aforementioned pool is a glorious way to spend a morning, as is the sensational spa. Indulge in a hammam (a must any time one is in Morocco) in its dedicated space filled with twinkling lights or take yourself off for a massage. This place is built for relaxation, so you may as well make the most of it. In addition to its on-site endeavours, the hotel can assist with a host of activities off-site, working with a network of local businesses to ensure guests make the most of their stay.
Whether it’s a kitesurfing lesson or camel ride, a traditional cookery class or a craft workshop – there is more than enough to keep you entertained if lying by the pool with a stack of books isn’t quite enough. I visited the local stables for a horse riding lesson on the beach; at around £30 for a one-to-one session with my guide, who taught me to canter along the miles-long stretch of sand fringing the Atlantic, it was worth every penny.
Essaouira itself is worth exploring. Aside from the galleries, concept stores and souks (a must if you’re after a Berber rug to take home), make sure to make time for the Port. Lined with fishermen selling that morning’s catch, you won’t find fish fresher. Pick your purchase, take it to one of the grills along the harbour and you’ll be rewarded with a simple yet satisfying lunch that will cost mere pounds.
For a winter weekender worth its weight in gold, book yourself a break to Le Jardin des Douars, the sunshine paradise of Morocco’s port city.
RyanAir flies twice weekly from London Stansted to Essaouira from £27.99 one-way.
