The nights seriously closing in, and The Laundry glows with a sincere atmosphere, warmth, and invitation. Its trademark red brick exterior with original signage dating from the 1880s stands out in an ever-changing, gentrified Brixton. I’m greeted with the familiarity of an old friend and shown to my cosy seat in the French bistro-style restaurant.
The staff are warm and sincere
Melanie, the owner of this establishment comes over to talk through the menu and as she does, I fire questions about her ownership and the history of the place. Having taken it over a good few years ago, we talked about the struggles of lockdown and how she just about managed to keep this unique jaunt alive. Being her first restaurant, it’s an amazing attribute to her management style and passion for this place that kept the restaurant doors open.
My guest and I are pleased with the menu. Not too big or convoluted, just simple but incredible-looking dishes from spaghetti aglio e olio to slow-cooked beef and marrow cottage pie, the offerings take inspiration from different corners of Europe, and all are given their flare and flavour by head chef Sami Harvey. They pride themselves on sourcing quality season and local (where possible) ingredients and it comes through.
After my chilled and gorgeously crisp glass of Viognier – my personal favourite. I order the herb-crusted cod and my guest the duck confit. While we wait the selection of bread, olives and burrata is demolished as we sink heavenly into the comfort of this, feels like you’re in a mate’s kitchen, vibe. The team seem like they’re having a blast working here and the service seems somewhat effortless.
We finish off the meal with some kind of chocolate delight, but I’ve already had one viognier too many and quite frankly, I either want to work here or move in. We were the last to leave, but in no way did we outstay our welcome. The chilled, laidback but attentive staff made sure of that with intermittent chats and big smiles.
The Laundry also offers private dining for up to 30 guests in their downstairs basement which would make for a wonderful and intermate gathering of sincere, foodie souls.
I urge you to pay a visit, they even offer ‘no-corkage Tuesdays’ which is a fantastic way to bring in the punters. However, the wine selection is too good to swerve.
The Laundry
374 Coldharbour Lane
London
SW9 8PL
United Kingdom
