Tofino: The Edge of the World
Tofino, on the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, is where nature truly reigns supreme. Cold Pacific water crashes against ancient black rocks, towering old-growth firs and cedars whisper in the salty breeze, and dream-like mist lingers over endless stretches of unfettered, expansive beach.
In November, the air is crisp, the crowds have thinned, and the storm-watching season is in full swing. It’s the perfect setting for a honeymoon—intimate, dramatic, and impossibly romantic. My (new!) husband and I were beyond excited to get the chance to spend an incredible long weekend here in November.
Now it’s worth noting that November isn’t your typical tourism month in Tofino, but it is my favourite month in Tofino. It’s moody, broody, and foreboding, yet has beaming sunny days. It’s rugged and wild, with waves bigger than I dare even think of, yet also peaceful, tourist-free, and mystical. It’s off-peak season then, so prices are lower, and dare I say – you’ll get more out of it.
The Pacific Sands Experience
Nestled against the lovely Cox Bay, Pacific Sands Beach Resort is a retreat that feels both luxuriously secluded and incredibly welcoming. The moment we arrived, we were enveloped in the scent of delicious cedar wood and the rhythmic crash of waves, the perfect backdrop for pure relaxation and bliss. The lovely Alanis at the front desk directed us to our suite, a gorgeous space of understated elegance—lots of wood, a crackling fireplace, and floor-to-ceiling windows that framed the glorious, wild Pacific Ocean. It was truly spectacular.
The pièce de résistance was our private outdoor hot tub, overlooking the stunning ocean from our balcony. A bottle of delicious local British Columbian wine awaited us, alongside decadent treats: hand-crafted local chocolates, artisanal bath salts infused with lavender and sea minerals, and plush robes to wrap ourselves in. The attention to detail was fabulous, each element curated for relaxation and indulgence. There was even a fully stocked kitchen for anyone who wanted to cook late at night (not us) and be more DIY. We, however, opted to order in and have a lazy night in with takeout.
A Night Under the Stars, Wrapped in Luxury
While we tucked into our food, cocooned in our lovely hotel room at Pacific Sands, it truly felt like it was just us there. Wrapped in thick blankets, with glasses of that delicious white wine in hand, we finished our takeout dinner before heading to the porch where we sank our bodies into the steamy, bubbly hot tub. Above us, the sky stretched out endlessly, constellations littering the inky blackness of the universe.
As the night deepened, we slipped under the duvet of the gloriously comfy king-sized bed, while the fireplace in the corner of the room cast a golden glow as we cuddled together. The night air was chilly, but within Pacific Sand’s lovely walls, we were swaddled in rest, warmth, and peace. The sound of the waves outside was so wonderfully relaxing, like a lullaby that helped us breathe a sigh of relief for the first time since moving back to Vancouver. It was the first night I slept without earplugs in a long time.
Morning Coffee, Ocean Air
The sun rose slowly outside alongside the scent of salty ocean and freshly brewed coffee in the air. I started my morning with a cheeky dip in the hot tub before breakfast (I couldn’t resist), and then we caught the sunrise by wandering down to The Beach Shack Cafe, Pacific Sands’ cosy café, where the offerings were as comforting as they were delicious. The Shack is a cute spot with a relaxed, surf-town vibe, offering a perfect blend of quick snacks, coffee, and very casual dining (think: Surfer Town). The wooden tables and cosy seating make it an inviting place to hang out over breakfast, with the ocean just steps away.
I opted for the vegan breakfast wrap—stuffed with creamy avocado, scrambled tofu, crisp vegetables, and a hint of spice that added a delightful kick. My partner indulged in a classic breakfast wrap brimming with eggs, bacon, and melted cheese, a hearty way to start the day. The Americano we had was bold and rich, made from locally roasted beans that carried notes of chocolate and caramel, warming our hands as we sipped while sheltering from the slightly cold (okay, very cold) wind.
The Beach Shack Cafe at Pacific Sands also offers a selection of freshly baked pastries, granola bowls, and smoothies, catering to every taste, so we had a slice of banana bread and a fresh croissant to finish. With the waves rolling in just beyond the café (the tide coming in at an almost alarming rate at this point), it was the kind of slow, indulgent morning that felt like a luxury in itself. With a little bit of that wild November edge, the waves were really looking very high!
Ahous Adventures’ Hot Springs Tour
Being in Tofino, it was inevitable that adventure called, and well… I, at least, had to answer. My husband was more wary – and perhaps rightly so. We embarked on the Hot Springs Eco-Tour with Ahous Adventures, a journey that was equal parts exhilarating and awe-inspiring for me, and terrifying and haunting for my husband.
Operated by the Ahousaht Ḥaẁiiḥ First Nation, Ahous Adventures offers an incredible experience on both land and sea, giving the tour tons of cultural insight and respect for the natural world. Our tour guide, Captain Cole, was simply brilliant. He seemed to have an encyclopaedic knowledge of the Tofino waters, and the creatures within it, and his respect for the natural wonders of Tofino was clear.
The boat chopped through the Pacific water, the wind whipping through my hair as we scanned the horizon for wildlife. The waves were very high at points – the adrenaline of the ride was made worth it by the breathtaking scenery—rocky islets dotted the seascape, and the forested cliffs of Clayoquot Sound loomed in the distance. Our guide shared stories of the land, pointing out historical sites and explaining the deep cultural significance of the area to the Ahousaht people. A lot of the history was so sad, deepening our respect for the history of this mystical place.
We spotted multiple bald eagles soaring overhead and a flock (if that’s what you call them) of porpoises bouncing through the choppy waters. We were even lucky enough to witness a pair of grey whales as their enormous fins sliced through the water, an awe-inspiring sight. I couldn’t get my head around how gigantic the grey whales were! At one point, I even squealed and hid in the boat, thinking they would capsize us (rest assured, they are gentle, lovely giants). The journey felt like a tremendous privilege, an intimate encounter with the otherwise hidden, wild, and untouched beauty of British Columbia.
Arriving at the dock, we were greeted by the lush,deep-green expanse of the rainforest. A winding wooden boardwalk led us through ancient cedar groves, the scent of wet earth and moss thick in the air. Every step felt sacred, the silence broken only by the distant rush of the odd spring, a little stream trickling through, and the pitter-patter of rain.
Then, the grand reveal—the natural hot springs, cascading into rock pools, steam rising from the surface. I didn’t know quite what to expect, but it was not this – the springs were huge! And thousands, thousands of years old. Fed by geothermal activity, hot springs have been a place of healing and relaxation since time immemorial.
We sank into the mineral-rich waters, which were quite literally hot, the warmth seeping into our otherwise very cold bones (it was really quite cold at this point), as we gazed at the waves out there. Amidst the heat, the mist, and the wild beauty of the Pacific Northwest, we felt like we had been transported to another reality. Shifting between the hot pools and the bracing cold of the ocean waves that kept lapping at us as the tide came in felt both invigorating and like we were somewhere very far away and quite prehistoric.
Fine Dining at Wolf in the Fog
Returning to Tofino, we wrapped up our day with an unforgettable dinner at Wolf in the Fog, a restaurant that embodies the soul of the island.
Resting Under the Stars
Back at Pacific Sands, we ended our night the way our day began—soaking in the glorious hot tub. The weekend had been a perfect balance of adventure and indulgence, of nature’s raw beauty and the comforting embrace of luxury. Tofino had given us something rare and precious: a honeymoon that felt both like a grand, wild adventure and a quiet escape, a place where time stood still and the world – our little private world – felt sacred.
For those seeking the ultimate blend of wilderness and indulgence, Pacific Sands Beach Resort is a destination like no other. Whether celebrating love, embracing solitude, or simply craving an escape, this is where the Pacific meets the soul. And once you’ve been here, you’ll find yourself longing to return—just as we do, even now.
Pacific Sands Beach Resort
1421 Pacific Rim Highway
Tofino
BC V0R 2Z0
Canada
