Frequenters of the Soho of old will barely recognise the formerly grotty corner now home to a clutch of shiny new bars and restaurants. The end of Manette Street has been revived into one of London’s spiffing new yards developments, with Australian eatery Milk Beach at its centre.
The second opening after Queen’s Park, is the first in central London and serves dishes inspired by the diverse cultures that make up modern Australian cuisine. It’s a bright airy space, with huge windows and pale wood, spacious, breezy and oh-so Aussie. It’s easy to assume it would be style over substance with such demure good looks, but thankfully the menu lives up to expectations.
Food and drink at Milk Beach Soho
The food is vibrant, fresh, flavourful and a refreshing change from the area’s existing offering. Alongside it serves speciality coffees from around the world that are traceable to the farm and organic, sustainable, terroir-driven wines from independent winemakers.
We visited one quiet Sunday afternoon for a long, lazy lunch. The cocktail list is a good place to start, with the signature Mango Chill Margarita packing a fruity punch and the perfect accompaniment to our half dozen freshly shucked oysters with mignonette. A zingy tuna tartare with kaffir lime vinaigrette is served with a giant puffed nori crisp to scoop it up with. The sesame prawn toast with gochujang sweet and sour sauce is quite the best we’ve tried, juicy and succulent, full of flavour and a real star dish.
Try the koji marinated chicken ‘Schnitty’ with fermented chilli mayonnaise; it’s utterly delicious, particularly when accompanied with sides including radicchio, goat curd and pear salad with candied walnuts and citrus vinaigrette and chicken salt chip. We also tucked into a mammoth plate of juicy prawns, flame grilled and served with fermented chilli butter, best enjoyed with a side of bread to mop it all up. While we had mild food envy at the sight of the belted Galloway ribeye with tare marinade and oyster and tarragon butter that arrived at the next table, we’ll most certainly be returning for it.
Of course, let’s not forget dessert. We indulged in the Milk Beach ‘Golden Gaytime’, a toffee and buttermilk parfait with dark chocolate, malt and honeycomb crumble. Utterly sublime.
With a decent outside terrace as well as its beautiful interior and a banging cocktail list, this is a new Soho hotspot that will delight drinkers as well as diners. We’ll certainly be returning.
Milk Beach
lona Rose House
Manette Street
W1D 4AL
Also access via: 13-14 Greek Street, W1D 4DP
