Mazi means ‘together’ in Greek. As will become clear, the concept of togetherness, of bringing ingredients and traditions together, of sharing food and conviviality, is at the very heart of the modern Greek restaurant Mazi, located in Notting Hill. With two restaurants under the same name in Abu Dhabi and Morocco, as well as the cosy bistro Suzi Tros in the building next door, the Mazi team – led by restaurateurs Christina Mouratoglou and Adrien Carré – are finding that bringing together (aha, so it begins…) Greek classic cuisine with modern flair is something interests a lot of diners.
Upon entering, Mazi is immediately the kind of restaurant that welcomes; there’s enough space to move between tables, but still the lively buzz of a cosy, packed taverna. The décor is chic but homely; hanging lights are vaguely reminiscent of lobster pots and the bleached wood panels add a kind of subtle Mediterranean ambiance. Nothing is too fussy or pretentious; Mazi is a restaurant for getting together (there we go again) with your loved ones and having a good, honest dinner of unexpectedly epic food.
We were shown to our table by Katerina, who went on to take care of us through the rest of the evening. Hailing from Thessaloniki, her knowledge about the food was amazing and she also recommended an excellent bottle of wine in the Ktima Biblia Chora 2022, a Sauvignon Blanc blend with native grape Assyrtiko, that had citrus and mineral notes that perfectly complemented the robust flavours in the food.
Flavour-packed food at Mazi
As we sat perusing the menu we were served a shot of traditional Greek spirit with pomegranate. This was a lovely palate cleanser and set the scene for the delicious meal ahead. Trusting in the chef, we opted to have selection of dishes recommended to us with one exception; upon walking through the restaurant we had observed an enormous tiger prawn on someone else’s plate and we insisted that one featured on our menu too.
The first course was an array of dips and thick sliced grilled bread with leek running through it. It was served with a peppery Cretan olive oil and a dish of Maldon salt. From a section of the menu entitled jars, we were served tarama sprinkled with bottarga powder and drizzled in dill oil. This was so fresh and fishy that it felt as though the experience of eating on a sunlit beach had itself been directly distilled into the cute little Kilner jar in which the dip was served.
The second jar contained smoked aubergine, tahini and thyme honey. This was super smoky, full of Greek herbs, topped with two salted aubergine crisps. Each of these appetisers was intense and moreish, doing exactly what it needed to do without being unnecessarily fussy or performative. The bringing together (are you counting?) of high-quality ingredients in dishes that seem simple but pack a real punch is where Mazi excels!
Several hot plates followed. The courgette cakes had a crispy outside similar to a croquette but were soft and creamy inside, topped with a very minty yoghurt-type sauce and served alongside a dip which was vaguely reminiscent of sweet chilli sauce. Following this, we had feta tempura with a light bubbly batter, served on a bed of rosemary and topped with a strong lemon marmalade and lightly torched caper meringue. The feta was tart and fresh with the meringue adding a creative twist to this modern Greek dish.
We moved on to the tiger prawn risotto, which featured a very substantial tiger prawn, charred on the grill and split open on the dish. The prawn was just barely cooked, still juicy and slightly translucent, while the risotto was rich with earthy and salty lobster head bisque. The rice still had a slight bite to it and, again, this dish was so full of flavour that the plate was completely clean by the time Katerina came to collect it.
From the signature dishes section, we were given spiced lamb rump served with tenderstem broccoli, a slightly spicy red pepper sauce and a minty yoghurt. I don’t usually eat lamb, but the pieces we were served were perfectly lean, tender and succulent. The highlight of the dish, however, was a broccoli puree that somehow condensed the essence of broccoli and, through the addition of a secret ingredient that I am not at liberty to divulge, elevated that humble vegetable to previously undiscovered heights.
To finish the meal, we were served Mazi speciality loukoumades, which are dough balls, bathed in lavender honey and topped with crushed walnuts. Traditional in many Greek homes, families often come together (did you think I had given up?) over a pile of these doughy delights and it was a cosy and intimate moment to light-heartedly squabble over the last one (in case there is any doubt, I’m always allowed the last one!).
Served alongside this was the best chocolate sorbet I have ever eaten, which now deserves a paragraph entirely of its own. Decadently chocolately but not too sweet, it would have been divine by itself but was utter perfection eaten with the loukoumades (when eaten together, if you will… One for the road…).
We were also served a final mastika liqueur; this exceptionally sweet digestif could be tempered with lime juice to taste. Coming from the island of Chios, this liqueur is made from the evergreen mastic tree, native to the Mediterranean, through the distillation of hardened crystals of resin (and the addition of sugar!). Mastika has a unique character which tastes of the trees from which it’s made and, with the citrus of the lime juice, seems to sparkle slightly, causing me to comment this would be the drink of choice for fairies and elves in mystical forests. It’s possible that the alcohol is also quite fast-acting…
Flavour worth raving about…
Mazi is, at first glance, somewhat understated. It’s not flashy, just well put together. Not opulent, but quietly indulgent. The bustle of an evening service, busy even on a Tuesday, shows that this is somewhere that people want to share with their friends and family, a little secret for those moments when someone asks for a recommendation and you can confidently say: oh, I know a lovely Greek restaurant… But the food is the star – each bite takes you to Hellenic islands and mountains with powerful flavours and unbeatable freshness.
Mazi‘s success is in bringing together (ok, last one!) all these things: the ingenious combinations of the finest ingredients, the careful curation of a fully Greek wine list, the charm of the staff and the good company that you bring with you. I can’t wait to go back, so if anyone needs a dining partner, give me a shout. We can go together.
Mazi
12 Hillgate Street
Notting Hill
London W8 7SR
United Kingdom
