Not everyone is lucky enough to receive an invitation to Mauro’s Table, the chef’s table experience offered by Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London. Nestled in one of London’s most prestigious addresses at The Old War Office (where we recently ate at Cafe Laperouse), the ambiance of Raffles Hotel London is glamorous, decadent and refined, an elegant blend of history and modernity. Tottering on pretty shoes through what can only be described as a particularly British thunderstorm, I was much relieved to arrive at Raffles and, once divested of my dripping coat, very excited.
We had been invited to enjoy a unique tasting menu at Mauro’s Table, paired with the wines of Bordeaux Château Le Puy and in the company of Pascal Amoreau, one of the dynasty who have made wines at Le Puy since at least 1610 (before this, there was no record of who held the land!). The centuries-long commitment of the Amoreau family to produce completely biodynamic wines is echoed in the focus on seasonality, sustainability and conscious use of ingredients within the kitchen at Mauro’s Table. We should expect nothing less from a chef who in 2023 was named UNESCO’s first goodwill ambassador for biodiversity!
I joined BBB big boss Charlotte and met the six or so other lucky guests, before we were welcomed into the cosy yet decadent space of Mauro’s Table, a small private dining room with a direct view into a separate kitchen, where Leonel Aguirre, the man who oversees all three Mauro Colagreco restaurants at Raffles London, was himself preparing our dinner. The air was fragrant with culinary clues and the warm lighting perfectly illuminated the round table where Pascal Amoreau and his colleague and interpreter Frédéric were waiting for us, setting the stage for an evening of culinary enchantment.
Mauro’s Table is not just a restaurant; it’s an immersive journey inspired by the royal family’s Knotted Garden. The dramatic open kitchen serves as the heart of this vibrant dining experience, offering guests a view of chefs meticulously crafting each dish with artistry and precision. The design is nothing short of spectacular, with rounded corners that created a cocoon-like atmosphere (depending on the furniture, it can hold up to 20 diners), making it the perfect venue for intimate gatherings or special occasions. Certainly, I forgot all about the rain very quickly!
Dining at Mauro’s Table
Our culinary adventure began with a beautifully presented aperitif and snacks, accompanied by the NV Fluence Brut Nature from Franck Pascal. Each bite was a delicate revelation, but my favourite was the walnut creation—crispy, earthy, and utterly delightful. The snacks arrived in charming dim sum steamer-shaped bowls, but inside were festooned with delicately positioned mosses and leaves to evoke the wonderful seasonality of the food. We were also treated to freshly baked bread, served alongside Pablo Nerud’s ‘Ode to Bread’, and a small dish of olive oil infused with lemon and ginger, elevating the experience with a touch of poetic sophistication.
Next came a stunning course of grilled ceps with foie gras and a potato salad topped with a crisp layer for texture. The earthy aroma was enticing and for the first time I felt that I was ready and eager for the warming and rich flavours of autumn! Paired with the dry and complex 2023 Marie-Cecile from Chateau Le Puy, this dish was a masterclass in balancing rich and rustic flavors.
Each plate was accompanied by rustic art prints of the main autumnal ingredients, a thoughtful nod to the seasonality that inspired the menu. Mr Amoreau spoke at the beginning of each course, detailing the wines he had brought for us to enjoy, as well as telling us about the astonishingly rich history of the Amoreau family in Bordeaux. I was very fortunate to be seated beside the winemaker himself, a man who proved to be thoroughly gentlemanly and tolerant of my French.
The journey continued with a cereal risotto (the risotto was actually made of crushed pine kernals), a dish that combined the flavours roasted vegetables with heaped grated elements such as charcoal on top. The grainy yet satisfying consistency of the risotto, topped with a velvety foam, created an experience that was both comforting and refined. Served with both the 2019 and 2005 Emilien from Chateau Le Puy, this course provided a delightful contrast of textures and tastes. The juxtaposition of the two wines allowed us to appreciate the evolution of flavor, with the older wine revealing deeper, more complex notes that perfectly complemented the dish.
As the evening progressed, we were treated to a succulent pigeon dish accompanied by girolles and blackberries, paired with both the 2019 and 2006 Barthelemy from Chateau Le Puy. The pigeon was cooked to perfection – pink, juicy, and rich with flavour. Each bite melted in my mouth, beautifully enhanced by the earthy mushrooms and the sweetness of the blackberries. Comparing the two wines added another layer to the experience; the older vintage again stood out with its richness and depth, offering a beautiful interplay of flavors that highlighted the dish’s elegance.
Finally, we were served plums alongside yogurt and purple shiso, accompanied by the 2023 Rose-Marie from Chateau Le Puy. The dish was a vibrant finale, topped with thinly sliced fruit that added a delectable crunch. The combination of sweet and tart flavors, coupled with the creamy yogurt, was a refreshing way to conclude the meal, leaving us with a lingering sweetness that perfectly encapsulated the evening’s culinary journey.
For anyone seeking an extraordinary dining experience in London and planning something truly special, I recommend Mauro’s Table. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of gratitude for the artistry and passion that permeated each course. Mauro Colagreco’s chef’s table is not just a meal; it is a celebration of nature’s bounty, expertly curated to engage the senses. As a delightful surprise, we were gifted copies of the printed cards that showed the ingredients that had been used and even some seeds to plant – lettuce – as a reminder of the garden’s bounty and the cycle of nature that defines the culinary philosophy here.
I would advise everyone to find an excuse to hold your celebratory dinner at Mauro’s Table and be the person bestowing these coveted invitations upon your loved ones or colleagues. This is a gastronomic journey through which the very essence of the season is captured in careful and intricate dishes that you will savour long after the last bite. You will be delightfully indulged and your guests will be eternally grateful.
Mauro’s Table
Raffles London at The OWO
Whitehall
London SW1A 2BX
United Kingdom
