Tucked away on a quiet residential street in Paddington, behind an unassuming front door rather than the usual restaurant facade, lies Jamuna, a dining experience that is as intimate as it is refined. This is not your typical Indian restaurant, nor is it a European brasserie; Jamuna is something entirely unique. The magic of this restaurant is found in its seamless fusion of European ingredients and techniques with the complex, fragrant spicing of India, all in a setting that values discretion as much as it does exceptional food. At BBB, we love a bit of fusion!
Jamuna is a female-led enterprise, run by the gracious Shamoly and her daughter, who oversee the restaurant with warmth and pride. The kitchen, meanwhile, is helmed by a chef formerly of Soho institution Red Fort, and his expertise is evident in every dish. Jamuna’s reputation for privacy has made it a favourite of globally recognised dignitaries and even royalty, who appreciate the secluded elegance it offers. Speak to any concierge in the area around Paddington; they regularly guide the most in need of discretion to this hidden gem…
Stepping inside Jamuna, the space is sumptuous, with dark tones accented by shimmering gold and crisp white table linens. It feels every inch the luxurious hideaway—elegant but never ostentatious. Downstairs, an intimate private dining room is available for functions, parties, or those seeking the ultimate in discretion.
Surprises were quick to reveal themselves when we were served our first taste of Jamuna’s unique cuisine; instead of the curry house staple of papad with chutney, the nibbles before the meal were big juicy olives.
The starters continued to exemplify how Jamuna is a different sort of Indian restaurant. We began our meal with two beautifully presented starters: grilled artichoke hearts topped with yogurt and subtly perfumed with cardamom, and four perfectly cooked breasts of quail, delicately dressed with a sharp yet balanced lime dressing. The choice to serve these in portions of four rather than the usual cheffy trio was a welcome one, ensuring no disputes over the final piece.
Moving on to the main dishes, we were served a lamb rogan josh, which had all the deep, warming flavours of dry ginger and Kashmiri chilli, but with a level of tenderness that made the meat fall effortlessly from the bone. I don’t typically order lamb, but this was an absolute triumph.
Alongside it, we enjoyed four enormous king prawns, bathed in a rich moilee sauce. Spiced in a South Indian style, the sauce had a subtle sweetness that perfectly complemented the juicy shellfish. Neither dish overwhelmed with heat; this is not the place for those seeking a fire-breathing experience. Rather, the spicing was nuanced and layered—complex without being overpowering.
Side dishes were a more traditional affair, with a naan and pilau rice, while for wine, we selected a bottle of Cannonberg Chenin Blanc, which proved an excellent match for the food, its crispness cutting through the richness of the sauces. We also indulged in a glass of an excellent New Zealand Pinot Noir, a bold yet elegant companion to the rogan josh.
Dessert was no afterthought. We finished with a decadent mango brûlée, its caramelised top cracking to reveal a silky, tropical custard beneath, and a cooling pistachio ice cream, served in a silver bowl with a delicate, crunchy biscuit on the side. It was a nicely sweet ending to an indulgent evening. In a final rebellious move, there is also a cheese option, which is a rare sight in an Indian restaurant, but a welcome one for those of us who can’t go a day without some of that creamy goodness!
After lingering over our final bites and bidding a fond farewell to our gracious host, we stepped out of this hidden oasis and back into the whirl of London, our hunger deeply satisfied and our spirits lifted by an evening of exquisite food and impeccable hospitality. Jamuna is more than just a restaurant – it is a rare gem, where culinary artistry meets quiet luxury, and where every guest is treated like royalty.
Jamuna
38 Southwick Street
London W2 1JQ
United Kingdom
