Ask a Local
If you want to find the best places to eat, ask the locals. Well, I am a local and one of the best spots with a jewel of a beach, spectacular sea views, and serving freshly caught local fish and produce, is the Beachhouse at South Milton, South Devon.
Beach Magic
The Beach House looks like a weather-beaten scout hut which has seen better times. Don’t be fooled though. Sure, it is weather-beaten, battered by the sou’westers which we get down here, the baby-blue paint peeling and outside benches salt-bleached and sand-blasted. You can just make out the joined-up letters ‘Beach House’ faded on the tar-paper roof.
Across the rutted access, the track is more scattered seating, with some wonky chestnut-paling fence stopping the adventurous from falling over the dunes to the beach below. This is where the magic comes together: the confluence of sea, sky, sand, scrumptious food…and drink, of course.
In The Know
Those In The Know come in the off-season, in the late afternoon and when there’s a storm or sunset. They know when the single-track lanes will be grockle-free and the nearby National Trust car park empty. Get the timing wrong and its snarl-up of stressed visitors, cars packed with dogs, children, and unnecessary beach paraphernalia.
But get it right and it’s as good as anywhere on the planet. If the weather is inclement there’s room inside for about two dozen. If the sun is shining plonk yourself at one of those tables overlooking the kilometre-wide sands and the iconic Thurlestone Rock archway, and order from a hatch round the side.
Swim Postponed
If anything the inside is more distressed than the outside, but in a very good way. Tangled beams with Edison vintage bulbs dangling, a wooden box holding ketchup labelled ‘OOH SAUCY!’, perched head high. Brightly coloured children’s seaside buckets for wine coolers, benches looking like they were knocked up in somebody’s shed. The kitchen is barely an arm’s length away from customers. No hiding there. Two large backboards proclaim the menu of the day and ditto drinks.
Guided by a helpful Amy “Only my third week, but I love it!”, we choose a bottle of Sicilian Bianco and some starters – Burrata, beetroot and hazelnut (plump, subtle); Wild Mushroom Arancini, truffle aioli (crunchy outer, earthy inner); and Crispy Squid, aioli (light, crispy, tender) to kick things off. We had planned to swim before lunch but a falling tide with choppy seas and a stiff onshore breeze put a stop to that. Instead, we listened to the wind rattling the windows and thought of what might have been…
Love Local
As we ate, John Leeson filled us in about the Beach House. He’s been the manager for two years and did his fishy apprenticeship at chef Mitch Tonks’s renowned Rockfish in nearby Brixham, home port for England’s largest commercial fishing fleet. “We get the best of what’s available from Brixham each day, so our menus change accordingly,” he said. “Simple seafood with house classics like sizzling garlic and chilli prawns, moules mariniere and bang-bang prawns. Sharing seafood platters is a big favourite.”
I’m of the MKI (minimum kitchen intervention) persuasion where fish is concerned so John suggested I try some oysters. “We buy from Porthkilly at Rock, North Cornwall’s only year-round oyster farm run by Tim Marshall and son Luke.” Here I learnt a new word – Merroir. The Camel Estuary where the oysters grow is also home to the award-winning Camel Valley vineyard where the terroir is perfect for wine production. “In French, the word mer means sea, and so the term merroir has been adopted to describe a sense of terroir for oysters.” Certainly, they were some of the best I’ve tasted, served as they should be with shallots and cider vinegar. Maybe John should get a few bottles of Camel Valley wine in to pair?
Good Vibrations
There’s a unique vibe about the Beach House; friends and families chatting over their fishy dishes, the bustle of the busy chefs, the pop of corks, and a really great playlist, not too loud, just enough to add to the mood. Good early Motown undoubtedly. The Contours, Martha Reeves and her fabulous Vandellas, Smokie, Gladys and the Pips. Combine that groove with great food and good wine, and you have a winning combination.
The Great Butter Debate
Amy reminded us that we hadn’t chosen our mains. Fish of the Day? Plaice. Yes please, served with peas, samphire, and rosemary salted fries with some of the Sicilian Bianco still left in the bottle to wash it down. A slight difference of opinion developed between my wife and I when it came.
The fish, beautifully cooked, was dressed with Café de Paris Butter, thereby testing my MKI belief. I loved it, she wasn’t sure. John persuaded his chef to release his closely guarded recipe, which I reproduce for you here – ‘Café de Paris Butter’: Butter, curry powder, turmeric, paprika, garlic, parsley, thyme, anchovy fillets, Dijon mustard, Worcester sauce, chillies, capers, lemon zest. Blitz together. The peas were dressed with samphire from Porthkilly. Perfect.
Plan Ahead
The Beach House is so popular that booking is essential, “Two years ahead for August Bank Holiday” said John. “Christmas and New Year are full, but customers can order at the hatch from our Takeaway Breakfast Menu (9.30 am – 11 am): Breakfast bap, with streaky bacon, local sausage, fried egg, mushroom, tomato, hash brown; or, Lunch (from midday): Salt and pepper squid; Bang-bang prawns; Arancini, aioli; Burrata salad; Fish goujons, chips, tartare; Chicken burger; Fish finger sandwich; Fritto Misto, aioli.” Scallops and lobster are on the main menu when available on the day. The scallops are hand-dived by Start Bay Shellfish just around the headland. You can’t get more local than that. Maybe next time…
Nicky’s Cakes
To send us on our way Amy suggested some dessert. Impossible to refuse and yummy of course. “How about Carrot Cake? I picked it up on the way here today” John told us. “A lady called Nicky in nearby Holbeton makes them for us.” Keep on doing what you’re doing, folks at the Beach House, South Milton. But lay in a couple of bottles of Camel Valley Atlantic Dry for us when we come back, please. Oh, and some scallops.
The Beach House
South Milton Sands
Kingsbridge
Devon
TQ7 3JY
