Following Part 1, we continue with the best drinks guide for the festive season!
White Heather Blended Scotch Whisky
Not all blends are born equal… White Heather is a brand that dates back to the 1930s but seems to have fallen out of favour at some point. Having enjoyed a dram sometime in the 1970s, veteran blender Billy Walker wanted to recreate the brand, a marriage of Speyside, Islay and Highland single malts with select grain whiskies. And I’m glad he did. It’s balanced, sweet, smoky, an absolute stand out in a world of often disappointing blended whiskies.
The name reflects that: white heather exists in very tiny quantities, so, according to Scottish folklore, anyone who finds this rarity will be blessed with good fortune. The same applies to anyone buying a bottle of this. RRP £69.99
Ezra Brooks Bourbon Cream
Baileys has a lot to answer for. I don’t like using the expression “guilty pleasure” – if you like it, just enjoy it, you don’t have to feel bad about it – but, well, I might lean towards such a phrase when it comes to Baileys. It’s a drink I’d never order but, with the family, post-Christmas, when a bottle comes out and you accept a glass… it’s always better than you remember, isn’t it?
Ezra Brooks Bourbon Cream might sound like a classic biscuit but it’s an alarmingly enjoyable combination of, er, bourbon and cream, that’s reminiscent of a spiked shake. Curiously, it seems to be available in two strengths – 25 and 33 proof – and we tried the former, via Amazon, as it happens… RRP around £21
Shanky’s Whip
In a similar vein, but avoiding the dairy, comes Shanky’s Whip, billed as “The original black liqueur and whiskey blend.” Everything about it – that branding, the eccentric aged label – suggests something rooted in Irish distilling history however I suspect it’s the result of a focus group or two.
That’s not a complaint. It’s stupidly delicious to the point we feared the previous bottle had sprung a leak or was evaporating. Good over ice, great in an espresso martini, and don’t get me started on Shanky’s Irish coffees. RRP: £27.99
Altamura Distilleries Vodka
The wheat of Puglia is the key ingredient of this well-presented Italian vodka. That’s the sort of sourcing that will excite a certain type of food nerd: bread made from Altamuran wheat is the only bread in the world with a PDO designation.
The distillery works with a single source of heritage grain – Andrea, patriarch of the Capello family, if you want to know – and the results are the sort of thing that one can only describe as refined, with a subtle aniseed flavour. Frankly, it has Martini written all over it. RRP £32.50
Torabhaig Cnoc Na Moine Legacy Series Chapter 3.
Last year, we reviewed the spectacularly festy “batch strength” Torabhaig Allt Gleann, which weighed in at a mighty 61.1% with big hits of smoke, spice and the ocean. The Cnoc Na Moine, a heavily peated single malt from the Isle of Skye, delivers similar flavours but has been mellowed by time in bourbon and American oak oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks, which add that dried fruit hints of vanilla and sweetness, and the smoke is more tobacco than bonfire. Their suggested serve is, brilliantly, “neat, in front of a roaring fire” and there’s no argument here. RRP £57
Larsen Aqua Ignis Cognac
Aqua Ignis is, apparently, “the world’s first cognac aged in steam-toasted barrels”. They’re plunged into hot water and toasted over the fire three times and are what gives this straightforwardly enjoyable liquid its name, the Latin words for “water” (obvs) and “fire”, its colour, and its mocha/vanilla notes. There’s a little sweetness in there that I couldn’t place but the tasting notes obliged with “candied fruit” so bring on the Christmas pud. RRP £38
Botivo
Botivo is a derivation of botanical aperitivo. This is a big sipping, complex aperitivo, with layers of flavours, from five botanicals – rosemary, thyme, gentian, wormwood and orange zest – creating something bittersweet, and herbal and took me right back to a Tuscan holiday sipping Amaro Montenegro as the sun set.
The even more impressive part? It’s zero alcohol. If you’re doing Dry Jan or on driving duties, or just don’t drink, your life just got a whole lot better. RRP £27.50
Bumbu Cream
Bambu Cream, not to be confused with Bum Bum Cream: this will not improve your skin and that, frankly, makes for an awful after-dinner drink. Yep, here we go again, with cream and booze and spices and, almost inevitably, it’s really tasty.
There’s a chai-esque quality to it, a lovely lingering rum flavour – if you get a chance to try their straight rum, it’s a really, really decent product – and it’s a proper crowd-pleaser. RRP £30
The Deacon
“Unconventional” is the word that seems to come up most often with blended whisky The Deacon. The steampunk label. The copper packaging. This is not a shy and retiring sipper; indeed, it’s a blend of Speyside and big peaty Islay whiskies. The official tasting notes talk “charred orange, sweet malty biscuits and woodsmoke”. For me it’s a little of the orange, a distinct lack of biscuit and a whole lot of smoke. It wouldn’t be my go-to but it does make a hell of a Penicillin. RRP £38
Taittinger Brut Prestige Rosé half bottle NV (37.5cl)
Dear restaurants. Stop offering “Bottomless Brunches” with appalling sugary Prosecco and start offering “Bottomed Brunches” with half bottles of great champagne at a much-reduced mark-up. I mean, two decent glasses of something like Taittinger Brut Prestige Rosé? That’s a fine morning. Similarly, it’s the perfect Christmas breakfast option, a beautifully balanced bubbly with hints of red fruit, or for a simple New Year’s toast. The only way to improve it, frankly, is to get the full bottle. RRP £30.00
Steenberg Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2023 and Steenberg 1682 Chardonnay Cap Classique
Here’s an interesting fact: Constantia is the oldest New World wine region in the world, dating back to 1659. Nope, me neither. Anyway, it’s a terroir that shines through all the region’s wines, such as this Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc from Steenberg – all citrus, vanilla and apricot – which has post-Christmas leftover curry written all over it.
As for the Chardonnay Cap Classique… it’s textbook stuff. Fresh, crisp, that little croissanty note, a hint of peach perhaps. It’s a whole lot of fizz for it’s sub-£20 price point.
Silver Reign Charmat of England
Kent’s Silverhand Estate is the largest single organic vineyard in the UK. And, from those 600-year organic acres comes Silver Reign. The name comes from King Ludd: Silverhand is located in Luddesdown, named after Ludd, a first century King, who lost his hand in battle and had a new one made in silver.
This is their debut release, and it’s a corker. It’s made using the Charmat method – yeah, I had to look it up too – and from the classic champagne-blend Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay grapes. Light, fresh, straightforward, hint of elderflower, good finish at a good price. RRP £20
Masi
Costasera Amarone Classico, 2019
According to Majestic Wine’s notes, Masi “is a byword for quality in Italian winemaking.” And according to Masi, this hefty red is their “gentle giant”. This wine is made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara grapes, hand-harvested, dried, fermented for 80 days, pressed and matured in oak for up to three years. The results are big, bold, with masses of dark fruit and chocolate. RRP around £45
Campofiorin 2020
Don’t want to spend £45 for the “gentle giant”, you could do a lot worse – and I mean a lot -than Masi’s Campofiorin. Smooth, hints of cherry and spice, a little tobacco. It’s a good one. RRP around £14
Fresco di Masi Organic Non Filtrato
Coming in at a very approachable 11%, Masi’s Fresco di Masi Organic is a new line, of simple, straightforward wines, with a low alcohol content. It’s a highly approachable blend of Garganega, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, with bags of fresh fruit and citrus. RRP around £13.99
Angelorum Recioto Classico dessert wine
A red dessert wine, the Masi Angelorum Recioto della Valpolicella Classico (to give it its full name) is made from ancient traditional grapes – Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara – dried for months, resulting in a rich, fruity, aromatic sweet wine that’s deep, complex and goes with pretty much everything we have after Christmas dinner… RRP c £28
Hedonistas de la Fe Tobala £121
My mission for 2025 is to fill in a big gap in my drinks knowledge. While I’ve sampled and tasted tequila and mezcal, have been talked through the various grades and ages, and wandered agave plantations in California, these are drinks I’ve never fully got to grips with or learned to fully appreciate. Even so, I think I can tell Hedonistas is a good one: a little smoke, lots of fruit, some spice. An extravagant lesson agreed, but I think I’m going to enjoy 2025…
Hedonistas de la Fe Espadin £64.99
Made from plants with six-to-eight years of maturation (rather than the ten years plus of Tobala – which I’m taking to be a first lesson), this feels like a younger drink. It’s still well-balanced and smooth, with hints of smoke and pepper, and a citrus finish. Somewhat inevitably, it made a very good Paloma…
Wednesday’s Domaine Eclat – £13.99 and Domaine Cuvée – £13.99
Continuing the occasional alcohol-free theme of this feature, and proof that this sector goes from strength to strength comes Wednesday’s Domaine. Made as wine and then de-alcoholised, these two fine sparkling wines – Eclat is white, made with Verdejo, Cuvée is rosé, made with Airen Blanco and Tempranillo – have all the other qualities of a celebratory glass, just without the alcohol.
While I’m yet to try a decent alcohol-free red, sparkling wines are, increasingly, very hard to tell apart from their entry-level alcoholic rivals. These are both enormously drinkable, lots of fun and tasty.
Hydes Cider
Based in Hampshire, Hydes are making wild-fermented, hand-crafted ciders that are well worth a look. They’re also gluten-free and vegan if those are boxes you need to be ticked.
The original Hydes Cyder is lightly carbonated, medium-dry and comes in at a moderate 5%. It’s light, delivers the sort of crisp apple flavours you’d expect, and lingers on the palate.
Hydes Lyte, remarkably, does just about the same job but at a remarkable 0.5% ABV. Good with the cheeseboard, and great with a leftover sandwich. Hydes Lyte is £17.50 for three 330ml bottles and Hydes Cyder is £19.50 for three 500ml bottles
Domaine de la Metairie d’Alon
French wines that celebrate the grape, not the geography? I approve. For whatever reason, my mind remembers grapes. My mind does not remember what wines that come from Burgundy or Bordeaux are made from. While I’m sure French winemakers have clearly stated the grapes before, the labelling for these has made my life considerably easier. And they’re very good wines too.
The Pinot Noir is deceptively complex: a lovely light cherry colour, warm and floral on the nose, with red fruit, hints of liquorice and pepper on the tongue. Their Chardonnay is similarly blessed: pale gold in colour, notes of peach and citrus, and a nutty richness to finish.
As for the Aligoté – as they say, “the lesser-known white varietal of Burgundy”, but obviously I’ll forget that in a matter of seconds – it’s a grape that’s enjoying a wee revival in the region, and this is a bottle that’s probably coming out on Christmas Day for the prawn cocktail. Refreshing, bright, with a hint of acidity, and some herb and lemon notes… a big thumbs up. Pinot Noir, £21.99 and Chardonnay, £21.99 (both available at Majestic). Bourgogne Aligote, £23.40 (available at Humble Grape).
Orin Swift – Mannequin Chardonnay
And back to the New World – much more my comfort zone – for this very Californian Chardonnay. As a Californian winemaker told me earlier this year, he gets to bottle sunshine and this is a case in point. Winemaker Dave Phinney has sourced grapes from some great vineyards, and aged them for eight months in French oak.
There’s richness but it still steers just the right side of all things oaky to satisfy all but the most ardent “Anything But Chardonnay” believer. Big and smooth, hints of lemon and peach, and a perfect foil for the richer of dishes this festive season. £37.50 at Majestic
Isabel Estate Marlborough Chardonnay
Definitely New Zealand. Definitely a Chardonnay. That’s not a criticism, just a statement of fact. This is a supremely well-made wine, by a vineyard with some of the oldest vines in Marlborough, that does everything you want from a New Zealand Chardonnay. Aromatic, intense, big flavours…
If you don’t like such things, this won’t change your mind. If you do like such things, then, well, Fortnum & Mason, and Berry Bros & Rudd both stock this and if that’s not an endorsement of quality then I don’t know what is. RRP £21
Calmel & Joseph AOP Faugères
This is the point I knew I could never be a wine writer. This feels like a lot of wine for the price, masses of red fruit, a proper black peppery warmth… and those are all things I think I’ve said 17 times already but my wine vocabulary is limited and there are a lot of wines that are big and red and fruity and spicy. Seriously I don’t know how Jancis does it. Regardless this is a robust and enjoyable rustic bottle. RRP £14.99, available in Waitrose
La Baume, Crémant de Limoux
It still feels like Crémant is due to its moment in the sun. People like fizz and a bargain and, while there are still some great Proseccos out there, there’s an awful lot of rubbish. Crémant though? Still feels sensible priced and so far, so reliable. This is a case in point, a pleasing, fresh, unassuming sparkling wine that’s very easy to drink. RRP £15, available from Ocado.
Château d’Anglès ‘Grand Vin’ 2021
Here’s a good fact to know. Château d’Anglès is owned by Eric Fabre, a man who spent eight years as Technical Director at Château Lafite Rothschild. In 2001 though, he and his wife headed to Languedoc and bought this estate where he’s now making wines such as this, for a fraction of the price of his former employer’s output.
This is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, matured for a minimum of 10 months in oak, for something smooth and full of red and black fruits and tobacco, and the sort of tannins that suggest you could lay it down for a little while. RRP £19.99, available in Majestic.
Baron De Guers Picpoul De Pinet
Picpoul is probably the nearest thing I have to a go-to wine, a generally safe, reasonably priced bet that works with all sorts of dishes, particularly in this small plate world in which we find ourselves living. And this one – zesty, bright, crisp, with loads of citrus – ticks all the right boxes and presses all the right buttons. Smoked salmon? Prawns? Cold cuts and all the bits on Mayonnaise Day (as a friend refers to Boxing Day)? Bring it on. RRP £11, available from Sainsbury’s
Panther M*lk
Available in four flavours – Crema (basically vanilla), Rosa (the fruity one), Café and Menta (exactly as they sound) – Panther M*lk is, you guessed it, another Baileys-esque creation. The hook here, however – and the reason for the “*” rather than an “i” – is that Panther M*lk is a mix of premium spirits and oat milk. Good news then for the lactose intolerant and the vegans? Actually, yes, it is. These are pretty good takes on the classic Spanish “Leche de Pantera” and the oat milk works well. RRP £18
Old Pulteney Port
I’ve had a soft spot for Old Pulteney whisky for the best part of two decades. One of my first travel features was a “pilgrimage” of sorts to their distillery in Wick – the northernmost distillery on the Scottish mainland – via assorted great restaurants as I meandered from the south coast to almost John O’Groats.
Often referred to as a “maritime” whisky, based on Wick’s heritage, at that point Old Pulteney was a delightfully Heath Robinson-ed affair, ingeniously making use of every bit of space as they grew in popularity and had to extend production. At that point – and perhaps even now – that involved an additional still in such an inconvenient location, they’d covered the bottom of it in the same tiles used on space shuttles, so that anyone forced to negotiate their way past it wouldn’t get their head burned if it was on.
The bottom line, however, was that the whisky was worth the potential injury, a dram that reflected the sea air with a hint of brine behind its vanilla, smoke and tropical fruit notes. That possibly goes double with this limited-edition release, as part of an ongoing Coastal Series of whiskies, the Old Pulteney Port. Given the name it won’t come as a surprise to learn this whisky is matured in both Ruby Port Pipes and Ruby Port Barriques, adding a rich fruit note (and pleasing deep amber hue) to the liquid.
It’s a delight, frankly, so much so that splendid chef Nuno Mendes (he of Chiltern Firehouse fame and, latterly, of the excellent Lisboa in London’s Fitzrovia) has used it as inspiration for a series of special recipes, celebrating Portugal’s and Wick’s “shared coastal heritage”. The recipes – Slow Baked Scallops with a Smoky Broth, Arroz de Marisco with Lobster, Crab, and Old Pulteney Port, and Soaked Portuguese Rice Cake with Old Pulteney and Caramel Custard Ice Cream – can be found at Old Pulteney’s website.
Available from Old Pulteney’s website, The Whisky Exchange, and specialist whisky retailers. RRP £76.
